Saturday, December 11, 2010

Viaje: Morocco

On November 12th, I went to Africa for the weekend. 


 Amber and I went with a travel agency on an organized trip to Morocco. We took the swanky ferry across the sea, and then yet another bus into the city of Tetuan. There we walked through the Medina (the old part of the city), and explored markets of fresh food and artisan crafts.


Tetuan
Market in Tetuan



We also visited a holistic pharmacy where they told us about their natural remedies for colds, upset stomachs, scars, snoring etc.



playin the tambourine at one of the restaurants

Amber and I at one of the restaurants
We also made a stop at the Caves of Hercules and the Cape of Espartel.

Look, it's Africa!
Apparently this is the main attraction in this big ol' cave. Neat.
And then, of course, I rode a camel (oh dang!)



Gaga on the camel

Did you know that it is actually really awkward to ride a camel?
Okay, so, I know that my 'To Do' list says "ride a camel in the desert." Well, I did ride a camel, but it was most definitely not in the desert (if you look closely at the pictures, you can see a huge body of water called the Mediterranean Sea in the background...). But, I am going to check it off the list anyway! (Close enough, right?)



Look, Mom! I'm in Africa!
On Sunday we traveled (by bus, as always) to Chefchauoan. I don't really know the significance of this particular city, except that everything is blue.



Gaga

We also made a stop at a shop that had handmade rugs.
.

And then we walked through the city some more...





Amber and I with the tiny Moroccan man.

Our weekend was totally planned out by the travel agency, so we didn't have to worry about finding a good place to eat (which is good because that can be tricky when you can't drink the water.) So here is some of the delicious food we ate!


Can't drink the water?
No probs, I'll have a Coke.









Now, I have to tell you. This was not my favorite trip. By far. 

I mean, of course I feel fortunate to be able to have this experience in the first place (and how cool is it to be able to say, "Oh, sorry, no I can't. I am going to Africa for the weekend.") But the weekend was just okay for me. 

First of all, while it is sometimes nice to have a trip all planned out for you, sometimes it actually hinders your experience. In less than 72 hours, we traveled to three different Moroccan cities. This means a whole lot of time on the bus (which was beautiful driving through the mountains, but my parents and Amber know that I can get real car sick. So all of those windy little roads quickly lost their charm for me). Also, we were led around like sheep the entire weekend, and had set schedules for everything. And I have found that when you go to a new place with nothing but your camera and a map, you tend to discover so much more of the city on your own. The entire trip was just a blur for me, which is why I cannot accompany my excellent photographs with insightful words.

Secondly, and most importantly, we had a harsh run in with the reality of the culture in Morocco. I was already aware of the situation in many African countries and others around the world in terms of women's social, legal and political rights and well being (I mean, it is going to be my future career for pete's sake). And many of you know that I have strong opinions about the situation of the woman around the world. So you all can imagine my frustration (and facial expression) when our Moroccan tour guide decided to "educate" us on "the woman."

For your reading pleasure, here is his lesson:
Women can wear the head covering and traditional clothing if they want or they can wear more modern clothing. Islam is about personal choice. However, if a woman's husband decides he wants her to wear the head covering or traditional clothing, she must because it says in the Koran that women must obey their husbands or they will go to hell.
Women are not allowed to wear make-up when they go out in the street to go shopping or visit a friend. However, the husband will call her on his way home and she must put on make-up and change into a sexy dress to open the door for him when he comes home. A bikini is optional, but is normally nice.
Men must pay a dowry for women when they get married. Its normally a lot of money but men try to get a strong woman because then the dishwasher is included. (Yes, he compared a woman to a dishwasher). There was also a reference in here to the women having the responsibility to keep their husbands warm... among other methods, this included waking up before everyone else to build a fire.

The best body for a woman is a skinny one. Although fat women can be useful, too. They provide us with warmth and shade.

 It says in the Koran that men are in charge of women.

As I educated myself with his words of wisdom, I fumed in my chair on the bus. (Amber was at the ready to physically hold me down to prevent me from launching myself at him). I know that this is part of their culture, and of course it is important to tolerate other cultures. But he talked about these things as if they were a joke. And I am sad to say that many other people on our bus laughed at what he was saying as if it were one. But it is most definitely not. This is the reality of millions of women not just in Morocco but around the world. It is nothing to laugh at. 


Also, I was incredibly frustrated with the way he used their religion to justify their cultural traditions. I would pay someone 1 million euro to show me where exactly in the Koran it says that men are in charge of women. These are cultural realities, not religious preachings. It is a representation of their society, not of their faith. He was not speaking the good message of Islam's holy book, but instead the ignorant words of a sexist and chauvinistic patriarchy. 

He even dared to say "Don't worry, I'm not talking about European women or American women. Just our women." (At which point I immediately thought, "Oh thank goodness, because I thought he was talking about me!.....not), and then ended the lesson with "Okay bye, I'm going home to my slut now."

I know this is a reality. But you all know that I don't believe in accepting realities that could or should be changed. And I have experienced this "machismo" before, but on a much smaller scale. (Usually in a bar, arguing with an uninformed boy on why it is offensive to call a woman a "bitch.") But for the first time, I could not open my mouth. I sat on the bus, my thoughts and opinions running furiously through my head, silent. 

So no, my trip to Africa was not my favorite. I daresay it was perhaps my least favorite (the caves of Aracena were way cooler than listening to that guy's bullshit). 


But I suppose one must experience these things for herself. What's more, it did strengthen my conviction to work tirelessly for women's rights around the world after I graduate. So thanks, ignorant tour guide. You have strengthened yet another warrior who will fight against the injustices of the world.

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